With all the parts finally together and prepared the rear axel was assembled. Some of the powder coating flaked off and will be touched up. I’ve ordered a new set of break lines and will put them on when they arrive. The steering box was held up due to the oil seal – then I discovered I could simply buy one at a local bearing shop! $5 and it fits perfect. I purchased a second one while I was there and gave it away an hour later to a needy person with a leaking box. The size of the oil seal is 28/40/7mm. Always buy two! Yes, I know the burman box should be painted black. I blasted it and gave it several shots of clear.
As all the clear has been applied and dried final wet sanding and polishing are just about done. The underside of the car has been treated to 6 cans of Wurth underbody rubberized protectant. Tomorrow the car comes back home for the start of reassembly. The break/clutch assembly was dismantled and cleaned up.
Back home – Paint shop has finished and the car was delivered to me to start the reassembly work
The choke and throttle knobs paint was warn away so I brushed white paint on them and used steel wool to remove the excess. The front spindles were assembled. I picked up the seats from the shop that put the new leather covers on them. Last shot is a closed foam ring for the gas tank that is now installed with stainless steel nuts and bolts.
The Giulia is now a “roller” and off the very high dolly. Getting it off the dolly took just as long as mounting the suspension! The old wheels are only temporary as new tires and wheels are on hand for the final assembly.
I’ve installed the basic suspension to get the super rolling. I also installed the glass, dash, heater box and wire harness along with some sound proofing. In the engine bay I put in the steering box, break booster, and some of the small items so they would not get misplaced or damaged. I’m still missing two firewall grommets for the upper heater hose and the cowl drain. I did note some spots the paint shop needs to attend to along with some small scratches and chips that I made while working on the window trim. The car is going to my mechanic for the engine and drivetrain installation.
Various updates: Some of the front suspension and drive shaft parts have been assembled. All new bushings, powder coated parts and cadmium plated hardware. Soon to be dirty….anyway.
Color and clear have been applied. Wet sanding and buffing are to come. Gaps look perfect (to the eye wide angle lens may show differently). The photos were taken under fluorescent lights so took a shot of the valence in the sunshine outside. Next step – undercoating with a product from Wurth
Rear axel and steering box With all the parts finally together and prepared the rear axel was assembled. Some of the powder coating flaked off and will be touched up. I’ve ordered a new set of break lines and will put them on when they arrive. The steering box was held up due to the oil seal – then I discovered I could simply buy one at a local bearing shop! $5 and it fits perfect. I purchased a second one while I was there and gave it away an hour later to a needy person with a leaking box. The size of the oil seal is 28/40/7mm. Always buy two! Yes, I know the burman box should be painted black. I blasted it and gave it several shots of clear.
Undercoating – painting finished! As all the clear has been applied and dried final wet sanding and polishing are just about done. The underside of the car has been treated to 6 cans of Wurth underbody rubberized protectant. Tomorrow the car comes back home for the start of reassembly. The break/clutch assembly was dismantled and cleaned up.
After sitting outside under a cover for a year or so I discovered some creature had fashioned a home for itself inside the heater box on top of the radiator. Aside from leaves, twigs and acorns, bits of foam and fur filled the box. I ordered a new radiator core, valve and hoses and set to work disassembling the box. This was my first time doing one of these boxes so many photos were taken to remember how this get put back.
After months in the body-shop where it had to be put aside a few times due to insurance/collision work, time has now come for color. High build primer was applied then sanded off then sealed. All the seams have been sealed. The first steps in color have taken place with some areas already sprayed with the clear-coat so the true final color can be seen.
The seats in the super were in bad shape. I ordered Italian leather in the same color as the previous vinyl covers. The old covers and foam were stripped off leaving the rusty frames which were then blasted to bare metal and powder coated. The final resulting frames look better then new.
The felt window “scrapers” were also in very sad shape doing more hame then good. The old crumbling felt guides were removed from the stainless steel trim and the new felt was glued on with contact cement then stainless wire was cut to emulate the original staples. The result looks the same new will not rust.
The seat tracks were disassembled, media blasted then repainted. Stainless steel trim was sent off for polishing.
Nearly all the bodywork and welding is finished. The last bit to finish are both front floor panels. Then a complete spray with the etching primer over which will be sprayed a high build primer that will then be mostly sanded off giving the body a perfectly smooth finish. I had the body shop do some additional welding to increase the strength of the front suspension mounting points and they engine mounts in the engine bay.
Preparations to build a wire harness.
With the old harness analyzed and labeled I am now preparing to replicate it using all new modern wire and quality double crimp terminals that will be soldered on as well. Various items were ordered to help in creating the harness. All of the items were purchased from Amazon with the exception of the wire (Rhode Island WIre) and the Terminals (British Wire). The terminals are not photographed yet as they have not arrived. I plan on adding several relays to the system but will not build them into the harness at this time as I would like to locate them all in one place and it’s too hard to estimate the location with the harness out of the car. The relays: one pair for the high and high/low beam headlights, one for the fog lights and one for the starter.
I’m very pleased with the service and quality of the wire. It looks just like the old harness (save for the yellow/black). The amount of wire ordered is listed below. I took a guess on the amounts and will post corrections when complete. The total came to $160.00
16 gage: 25′
16 Gage: 40′
16 Gage Strait Tracer: 25′
16 Gage Single Spiral Tracer: 25′
12 gage: 10′
10 gage – 10′
1) The relays. I paid extra to get real Bosch units. Hopefully they are worth it.
2) Relay holders. These cool units snap together and keep the relays in nice order. Inline fuses will be used along with the relays. 3) Self-fusing Silicone Tape – Amazing stuff. Too often mechanics will fix a harness with standard adhesive backed electrical tape. That stuff eventually turns into a gooey mess. This tape is non adhesive back but after wrapping it melds to itself forming a seamless and flexible waterproof tube with a temperature range of -65F to 500F!
4)A set of decent quality crimpers and wire strippers and a tool to hold wire/terminals while soldering
5) I splurged a bit and ordered a good quality soldering wand.
Next; laying out the wire.
So begins the start of tagging and identifying the wires in my harness in preparation to make a new one. Yes, I should have marked the terminals when I removed them but time was short and it’s not too hard with the wiring diagram.
While the super’s body is out being cut and welded it’s a good time to work on the little things and acquire parts.
The next project I’m planing on doing is the wire harness. I’m going to make a new one with all the correct color wires, new connectors and some modifications. I’m going to run some extra circuits; I want another break light on the rear parcel shelf for safety, I’m going to install a set of fog lights on the front bumper and I need some direct power to the dash for a radio, and several USB plugs for GPS and various device charging.
I also plan to install relays for the starter and the headlamps. As this is not a concurs restoration I’m also upgrading to a modern fuse box with “blade” fuses and two extra circuits. The plan is to install this larger box in the drivers side foot well wall if there is room.
Work has been continuing on the Super at the bodyshop. The car was picked up from the media blaster and delivered to my autobody shop on the North Fork of Long Island. I used them to repaint my GTV and am very happy with the results – although this job is quite a bit larger in scope due to the rust.
I’ve decided to keep the original color Faggio. I’m working on locating quality interior leather seat covers and door cards.